Saturday 2 May, 2015 Paris to Canada
We caught the RER train a couple blocks from our apartment to Charles de Gaulle Airport and flew back to Montreal, where an officious supervisor would not let us through because we were less than 30 seconds late - mostly because Air Canada had our flight and a flight from Switzerland on the same baggage carrousel rather than open another. So, instead of being home at 1800h on Saturday night, we arrived at 0200h on Sunday morning to discover that we had about 30 - 40% of our yard covered in snow with drifts still a metre high.
There is a lot that we learn on every trip from experience and do not mind sharing with others. Did you know that the French who first bottled water and sold it to the rest of the world drink tap water? Yes, when you sit down, just ask the waiter for "un carafe d'eau" and it is free - as is the bread. And, although you may have some heart palpatations when you look at a menu, the VAT (HST for us) and service or tip are included in the price. You never tip!
Some have asked where our pictures are. It is hard to put pictures in your blog, when your spouse keeps you marching for 12 hours a day! Our pictures are at: https://picasaweb.google.com/ted.lomatski/2015BarcelonaFrance02?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK6Jw6DnmKutCw&feat=directlink
They will be updated and labeled later in the week with those from our mobile.
Wednesday, 6 May 2015
May Day in Paris
Friday 1 May, 2015 Labour Day in Paris
Another drizzly day, but we set out to do some shopping in Paris. After taking the Metro to "au Printemps" - a major department store it hit us - we were not early (although we were), but it was Labour/May Day and everything was closed! We knew better!!! We then continued with our plan of visiting the Arc de Triomphe and continuing down the Champs-Élysées where we had lunch on the second floor of a Bistro overlooking the Champs-Élysées. We continued strolling, checking out the automobile showrooms - BMW, Mercedes, etc. - the only stores open. That evening, not being hungry, we went to the local pizza place and had the worst meal possible - not the memorable last meal we had planned on. Then it was back to the apartment to pack and to get to bed early.
Another drizzly day, but we set out to do some shopping in Paris. After taking the Metro to "au Printemps" - a major department store it hit us - we were not early (although we were), but it was Labour/May Day and everything was closed! We knew better!!! We then continued with our plan of visiting the Arc de Triomphe and continuing down the Champs-Élysées where we had lunch on the second floor of a Bistro overlooking the Champs-Élysées. We continued strolling, checking out the automobile showrooms - BMW, Mercedes, etc. - the only stores open. That evening, not being hungry, we went to the local pizza place and had the worst meal possible - not the memorable last meal we had planned on. Then it was back to the apartment to pack and to get to bed early.
Friday, 1 May 2015
in the HOOD
Thursday 30 April, 2015 - exploring our neigbourhood
We woke up to a heavy downpour, but this did not deter us from doing three walking tours in our neighbourhood. Among the many sites we saw were where Hemmingway stayed (3 locations) and had a cappucino where he drank whisky. We visited the famous English language bookstore - Shakespeare & Co. - a treasure trove of reading built like warren of small rooms and nooks. Walking along, I was delighted to be able to help others with directions - en français. Who knew we looked like locals?
This evening we had one of our best meals of our vacation at the "Restaurant Perraudin" right in our neighbourhood. We had great conversations with mostly Americans around us.
We woke up to a heavy downpour, but this did not deter us from doing three walking tours in our neighbourhood. Among the many sites we saw were where Hemmingway stayed (3 locations) and had a cappucino where he drank whisky. We visited the famous English language bookstore - Shakespeare & Co. - a treasure trove of reading built like warren of small rooms and nooks. Walking along, I was delighted to be able to help others with directions - en français. Who knew we looked like locals?
This evening we had one of our best meals of our vacation at the "Restaurant Perraudin" right in our neighbourhood. We had great conversations with mostly Americans around us.
Montmatre and the Louvre
Wednesday 29 April, 2015 - Montmartre
We caught the Metro to Montmartre (the highest point in Paris), where we learned that if there is a choice between an elevator and stairs, one should take the elevator! Because the Metro follows the same elevation, by the time you arrive at the Metro stop, you have a good 200 stairs to climb to get out of the station. You then have more to climb to get to the Funicular, which takes you near the steps of the Sacre Couer, which has its own set of steps to climb.
Sacre Cour is a more square church and although large seems more "homey" if one can describe a church in those terms. Because of its design, it also lets in more light. It was built to celebrate the deliverance of Paris from the Germans after the Franco-Prussian war and was financed completely by the people. We then took a little tourist train around Montmartre taking in the famous and infamous sights such as the Moulin Rouge. We saw where artists such as Pablo Picasso, Renoir, van Gogh, Matisse and Degas stayed. It is certainly a colourful area with artists everywhere - and many ready to sketch you at a moments notice.
On the way back to the Metro we had a well deserved lunch at the "Villa des Abbesses", trying to recapture some of the calories we had burned off. We then took the Metro to Place Concorde and walked through the Tuilleries Gardens to the Louvre.
The Louvre is truly amazing. As a building it is massive with a kilometre of halls of displays on each of 5 levels - for a total of 5 kilometres! We did see the "Mona Lisa" among many other paintings and statues, but barely scratched the surface in the 4 hours spent there. The architecture and finishes of the Louvre are masterpieces in themselves.
From there we headed back to the rue Clerc neighbourhood near the Eiffel Tower and had dinner at "au-petit-sud-ouest" which features duck from the owner's farm in the south west of France. You can have any kind of duck you want - as long as it is duck!
Hurrying our meal - because it was nearly 10pm, we went over to the Eiffel Tower to see the light display that happens at the top of the hour. Not to be missed!
We caught the Metro to Montmartre (the highest point in Paris), where we learned that if there is a choice between an elevator and stairs, one should take the elevator! Because the Metro follows the same elevation, by the time you arrive at the Metro stop, you have a good 200 stairs to climb to get out of the station. You then have more to climb to get to the Funicular, which takes you near the steps of the Sacre Couer, which has its own set of steps to climb.
Sacre Cour is a more square church and although large seems more "homey" if one can describe a church in those terms. Because of its design, it also lets in more light. It was built to celebrate the deliverance of Paris from the Germans after the Franco-Prussian war and was financed completely by the people. We then took a little tourist train around Montmartre taking in the famous and infamous sights such as the Moulin Rouge. We saw where artists such as Pablo Picasso, Renoir, van Gogh, Matisse and Degas stayed. It is certainly a colourful area with artists everywhere - and many ready to sketch you at a moments notice.
On the way back to the Metro we had a well deserved lunch at the "Villa des Abbesses", trying to recapture some of the calories we had burned off. We then took the Metro to Place Concorde and walked through the Tuilleries Gardens to the Louvre.
The Louvre is truly amazing. As a building it is massive with a kilometre of halls of displays on each of 5 levels - for a total of 5 kilometres! We did see the "Mona Lisa" among many other paintings and statues, but barely scratched the surface in the 4 hours spent there. The architecture and finishes of the Louvre are masterpieces in themselves.
From there we headed back to the rue Clerc neighbourhood near the Eiffel Tower and had dinner at "au-petit-sud-ouest" which features duck from the owner's farm in the south west of France. You can have any kind of duck you want - as long as it is duck!
Hurrying our meal - because it was nearly 10pm, we went over to the Eiffel Tower to see the light display that happens at the top of the hour. Not to be missed!
Eiffel Tower & Music in Notre Dame
Tuesday 28 April, 2015 - exploring Paris
We started off by walking through the Luxembourg Gardens - a beautiful spot even in April. We then toured the gardens at the Rodin museum (the museum itself was not open) where many of his statues or replicas are displayed including "The Thinker". Then we had a date with the Eiffel Tower. We had pre-booked, so we were able to go straight to the top level - over 300 metres or 81 stories. Wow! All of Paris at our feet! It was a sunny day and we could see forever!! After admiring the views we then went down to the 2nd level (about a 1/3 of the way up) where it was actually easier to identify landmarks. This was the absolute highlight of stay in Paris.
From there we headed to the "Café du Marché" for a late lunch. After lunch, we did more sightseeing before having a light dinner. After dinner we had tickets for a recital of sacred (pipe) organ music at Notre Dame Cathedral. It was truly magical with the wonderful accoustics created by the scultpted stone walls.
We started off by walking through the Luxembourg Gardens - a beautiful spot even in April. We then toured the gardens at the Rodin museum (the museum itself was not open) where many of his statues or replicas are displayed including "The Thinker". Then we had a date with the Eiffel Tower. We had pre-booked, so we were able to go straight to the top level - over 300 metres or 81 stories. Wow! All of Paris at our feet! It was a sunny day and we could see forever!! After admiring the views we then went down to the 2nd level (about a 1/3 of the way up) where it was actually easier to identify landmarks. This was the absolute highlight of stay in Paris.
From there we headed to the "Café du Marché" for a late lunch. After lunch, we did more sightseeing before having a light dinner. After dinner we had tickets for a recital of sacred (pipe) organ music at Notre Dame Cathedral. It was truly magical with the wonderful accoustics created by the scultpted stone walls.
à Paris
Monday 27 April, 2015 - off to Paris
After a quick last look around Amboise we caught the train to Paris, where it was shockingly cold (-12'C) after the heat of the south. Upon arrival we checked into our tiny AirBnB apartment. We are conveniently located in the Latin Quarter a 10 minute walk from the Notre Dame Cathedral, and between the Pantheon and the Luxembourg Gardens. We started with visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral - absolutely spectacular with the most vibrant stained glass we have seen anywhere. We then explored the area for a couple of hours until we froze - there was a windchill! We had an early dinner at Gueuze a brew pub in the student district of the Sorbonne.
After a quick last look around Amboise we caught the train to Paris, where it was shockingly cold (-12'C) after the heat of the south. Upon arrival we checked into our tiny AirBnB apartment. We are conveniently located in the Latin Quarter a 10 minute walk from the Notre Dame Cathedral, and between the Pantheon and the Luxembourg Gardens. We started with visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral - absolutely spectacular with the most vibrant stained glass we have seen anywhere. We then explored the area for a couple of hours until we froze - there was a windchill! We had an early dinner at Gueuze a brew pub in the student district of the Sorbonne.
Thursday, 30 April 2015
The Loire Valley
Sunday 26 April, 2015 - house hunting in the Loire Valley
We started the morning at "Clos du Lucė" the chateau where Leonado da Vinci spent the last 3 years of his life under the patronage of King François 1st. He crossed the Alps on a mule bringing with him among other things the Mona Lisa, which at one point hung in the King's bathroom!! This was one of the most fascinating places we have ever visited. The chateau, although quite large overall, was well proportioned and liveable.
His machines were brought to life by IBM who created scale models based on his original drawings. Gliders, aeroplanes, swing bridges, tanks, gattling guns, screw pumps, canal locks - all centuries ahead of his time.
The next stop was Chateau Amboise. A hugh fortress that had guarded Amboise in medieval times, it features a dramatic wide entrance ramp where horses drawing a carriage could gallop up a steep slope into the main court yard.
After a quick lunch we caught our guided tour of the Chateaux of Chambord and Chenonceau.
Chambord is the largest of the Loire Valley Chateaux, so large we thought we might get lost! If features a number of beautifully decorated and furnished rooms. It has a double helix staircase that winds around a central pillar where guests can see each other, yet never meet. From there we travelled to Chenonceau considered to be the most graceful and elegant of the chateaux. It was was owned by a succession of 3 powerful women. It is built across the river Cher with 4 arches topped by a splendid ball room. During WWII, the river Cher was the demarcation line between occupied France and the Vichy regime. The castle was used to smuggle resistance fighters into occupied France and the ball room served as a hospital.
All four of the properties had wonderful features, however none met our standards and needs, so we will be returning to Stratford.
We finished the day with a delightful meal at "L'Épicerie" facing the Chateau Amboise, where we were happy to find ourselves seated next to the four Australians we had met on the tour and were able to continue our interesting conversations. Did you know that they are able to plant only one crop per year in the Perth area beause of drought??
We started the morning at "Clos du Lucė" the chateau where Leonado da Vinci spent the last 3 years of his life under the patronage of King François 1st. He crossed the Alps on a mule bringing with him among other things the Mona Lisa, which at one point hung in the King's bathroom!! This was one of the most fascinating places we have ever visited. The chateau, although quite large overall, was well proportioned and liveable.
His machines were brought to life by IBM who created scale models based on his original drawings. Gliders, aeroplanes, swing bridges, tanks, gattling guns, screw pumps, canal locks - all centuries ahead of his time.
The next stop was Chateau Amboise. A hugh fortress that had guarded Amboise in medieval times, it features a dramatic wide entrance ramp where horses drawing a carriage could gallop up a steep slope into the main court yard.
After a quick lunch we caught our guided tour of the Chateaux of Chambord and Chenonceau.
Chambord is the largest of the Loire Valley Chateaux, so large we thought we might get lost! If features a number of beautifully decorated and furnished rooms. It has a double helix staircase that winds around a central pillar where guests can see each other, yet never meet. From there we travelled to Chenonceau considered to be the most graceful and elegant of the chateaux. It was was owned by a succession of 3 powerful women. It is built across the river Cher with 4 arches topped by a splendid ball room. During WWII, the river Cher was the demarcation line between occupied France and the Vichy regime. The castle was used to smuggle resistance fighters into occupied France and the ball room served as a hospital.
All four of the properties had wonderful features, however none met our standards and needs, so we will be returning to Stratford.
We finished the day with a delightful meal at "L'Épicerie" facing the Chateau Amboise, where we were happy to find ourselves seated next to the four Australians we had met on the tour and were able to continue our interesting conversations. Did you know that they are able to plant only one crop per year in the Perth area beause of drought??
Goodbye Riviera!
Friday 24 April, 2015 last day in Nice
On our last day in Nice we threw the guide book out the window (sort of) and just wandered around Old Nice and the waterfront. Old Nice has beautiful parks and squares and wonderful colours and architecture which are reminiscent of nearby Italy which it was recently (by European standards) part of. We taste tested various gelatos, had a picnic at the beach and finished the day with dinner at "Le Luna Rossa" an Italian restaurant popular with the locals. We then had one last look at the illuminated fountains and statues in Place Massena before heading home.
On our last day in Nice we threw the guide book out the window (sort of) and just wandered around Old Nice and the waterfront. Old Nice has beautiful parks and squares and wonderful colours and architecture which are reminiscent of nearby Italy which it was recently (by European standards) part of. We taste tested various gelatos, had a picnic at the beach and finished the day with dinner at "Le Luna Rossa" an Italian restaurant popular with the locals. We then had one last look at the illuminated fountains and statues in Place Massena before heading home.
Monaco
Thursday 23 April, 2015 - Monaco
We took the train to Monaco where we started our day by touring the Royal Palace which is still occupied by the royal family and caught the changing of the guard. From there we proceeded to the Cathedral of Monaco where Princess Grace and Prince Ranier were married in 1956 and today houses their tombs. After, we visited the Cousteau Aquarium, built in 1910 and later directed by Jacques Cousteau for 32 years. Very impressive displays! We had lunch at the rooftop restaurant of the aquarium with wonderful vistas of the principality and the Mediterranean.
After the aquarium we hopped a local bus which brought us to the Casino, where along with the other tourists we gasped at the opulence before we snuck in for a quick look.
Monaco is a tiny principality only 2 sq km and as it is built on the side of a mountain has no area that is flat! You are always climbing or walking steeply down hill!
After catching the train back to Nice, we went for dinner at the "Villa d'Este" for a great Italian meal.
We took the train to Monaco where we started our day by touring the Royal Palace which is still occupied by the royal family and caught the changing of the guard. From there we proceeded to the Cathedral of Monaco where Princess Grace and Prince Ranier were married in 1956 and today houses their tombs. After, we visited the Cousteau Aquarium, built in 1910 and later directed by Jacques Cousteau for 32 years. Very impressive displays! We had lunch at the rooftop restaurant of the aquarium with wonderful vistas of the principality and the Mediterranean.
After the aquarium we hopped a local bus which brought us to the Casino, where along with the other tourists we gasped at the opulence before we snuck in for a quick look.
Monaco is a tiny principality only 2 sq km and as it is built on the side of a mountain has no area that is flat! You are always climbing or walking steeply down hill!
After catching the train back to Nice, we went for dinner at the "Villa d'Este" for a great Italian meal.
37 Years and Counting
Wednesday 22 April, 2015 - Eze-le-Village
We took the local bus to Eze-le-Village a medival hilltop village between Nice and Monaco. It is a mixture of expensive residences and hotels along with the shops of artists and artisans. We hiked up the mountain to admire the beautiful views of the Mediteranean. On the way down we enjoyed a spectacular scenic beer at Chateaux Eza on a terrasse overhanging the mountain and looking over the Mediteranean. The Chateaux Eza was the winter get-away of the Royal Swedish family from 1923 - 1953.
On return to Nice we wandered the promenade des Anglais again as well as some of the side streets. Later, we had our anniversary dinner at "La Maison de Marie". An excellent meal with the fastest moving waiters we have seen anywhere!
We took the local bus to Eze-le-Village a medival hilltop village between Nice and Monaco. It is a mixture of expensive residences and hotels along with the shops of artists and artisans. We hiked up the mountain to admire the beautiful views of the Mediteranean. On the way down we enjoyed a spectacular scenic beer at Chateaux Eza on a terrasse overhanging the mountain and looking over the Mediteranean. The Chateaux Eza was the winter get-away of the Royal Swedish family from 1923 - 1953.
On return to Nice we wandered the promenade des Anglais again as well as some of the side streets. Later, we had our anniversary dinner at "La Maison de Marie". An excellent meal with the fastest moving waiters we have seen anywhere!
Saturday, 25 April 2015
Nice and the French Riviera
Tuesday 21 April, 2015 To Nice
We packed and caught the train to Nice after encountering a delay of an hour and a half. As we approached Nice I had this feeling or dread. The signs in the train turned from French to bilingual English to finally English only. My worst fears did come true - I was unable to control Gail - she could order and buy whatever she wanted! We arrived at 1500h, unpacked and headed down to the "Promenade des Anglais" - a wide 6 km long promenade, built in Victorian times to allow rich vacationers to walk along the sea without getting wet or dirty. It still works, with families, bikes, joggers, segways, scooters and skateboards all sharing. It also allows a view of scantily clad sunbathers. Unfortunately, the economy has had a devistating effect on some of the population. Textiles I am assuming are extremely expensive as I am estimating they are getting 50 bikini bottoms from a square metre of cloth with nothing left for tops.
The beach itself is gravel and even more astounding is that people are lying directly on the gravel! There are other nice sandy beaches in the area but the locals do not seem to mind the gravel.
At the end of the promenade we took the lift to the top of Castle Hill, the site of the original Greek town of Nice, and now a beautiful park with wonderful views of the Mediterranean and the city of Nice. After that we strolled around the old town for a couple of hours and finished the day with dinner at "Le Safari" which specialises in regional dishes.
We packed and caught the train to Nice after encountering a delay of an hour and a half. As we approached Nice I had this feeling or dread. The signs in the train turned from French to bilingual English to finally English only. My worst fears did come true - I was unable to control Gail - she could order and buy whatever she wanted! We arrived at 1500h, unpacked and headed down to the "Promenade des Anglais" - a wide 6 km long promenade, built in Victorian times to allow rich vacationers to walk along the sea without getting wet or dirty. It still works, with families, bikes, joggers, segways, scooters and skateboards all sharing. It also allows a view of scantily clad sunbathers. Unfortunately, the economy has had a devistating effect on some of the population. Textiles I am assuming are extremely expensive as I am estimating they are getting 50 bikini bottoms from a square metre of cloth with nothing left for tops.
The beach itself is gravel and even more astounding is that people are lying directly on the gravel! There are other nice sandy beaches in the area but the locals do not seem to mind the gravel.
At the end of the promenade we took the lift to the top of Castle Hill, the site of the original Greek town of Nice, and now a beautiful park with wonderful views of the Mediterranean and the city of Nice. After that we strolled around the old town for a couple of hours and finished the day with dinner at "Le Safari" which specialises in regional dishes.
Nimes - the best preserved Roman City
Monday 20 April, 2015 Nimes
We got back on track with our plans and took the train to Nimes for the day. Nimes is another Roman city which is famous for its Coliseum the largest and most well preserved outside of Rome (with a fraction of the crowds). It has been in continual use for 2100 years although the Christians have been replaced by bulls. We were a couple weeks early as the bull fights don't start until Labour Day weekend - 1 May. In France, the bull lives, albeit until he becomes steak! The rest of the Roman antiquities such as the Temple of Diana, and the Maison Carree which is smaller but of the same design as the acropolis looks like the day it was finished and you expect Roman citizens and locals to walk out. We then visited the collection well and distribution hub for all that water from Pont du Gard. [We are constantly amazed at Roman engineering from over 2000 years ago and the fact that not only are there so many surviving examples, but many roads, bridges, aquaducts are in everday use.]
The town also features a beautiful fountain garden which was modeled on Versailles and was the first garden and park of this style to be built for the public rather than royalty. Nimes built its industry on a famous fabric - de nimes (can you figure it out)? and is still a major textile centre. We finished out day in Nimes with our traditional scenic beer and then headed back to Avignon.
That evening we ate at "L'Epice and Love" a funky little restaurant with menu that changes every day. The owner buys only enough for that day. As an example, she had enough escargots for 6 people - then the people had to have another entree. It was the same for the main course. The food was delicious! We have been relying on our Rick Steves guide for restaurant recommendations and he rarely steers us wrong.
We got back on track with our plans and took the train to Nimes for the day. Nimes is another Roman city which is famous for its Coliseum the largest and most well preserved outside of Rome (with a fraction of the crowds). It has been in continual use for 2100 years although the Christians have been replaced by bulls. We were a couple weeks early as the bull fights don't start until Labour Day weekend - 1 May. In France, the bull lives, albeit until he becomes steak! The rest of the Roman antiquities such as the Temple of Diana, and the Maison Carree which is smaller but of the same design as the acropolis looks like the day it was finished and you expect Roman citizens and locals to walk out. We then visited the collection well and distribution hub for all that water from Pont du Gard. [We are constantly amazed at Roman engineering from over 2000 years ago and the fact that not only are there so many surviving examples, but many roads, bridges, aquaducts are in everday use.]
The town also features a beautiful fountain garden which was modeled on Versailles and was the first garden and park of this style to be built for the public rather than royalty. Nimes built its industry on a famous fabric - de nimes (can you figure it out)? and is still a major textile centre. We finished out day in Nimes with our traditional scenic beer and then headed back to Avignon.
That evening we ate at "L'Epice and Love" a funky little restaurant with menu that changes every day. The owner buys only enough for that day. As an example, she had enough escargots for 6 people - then the people had to have another entree. It was the same for the main course. The food was delicious! We have been relying on our Rick Steves guide for restaurant recommendations and he rarely steers us wrong.
The Pont du Gard Aquaduct
Sunday 19 April, 2015 The Aquaduct
We took the bus to Pont du Gard an incredible 3 level bridge and aquaduct which was part of the major system bringing water to the town of Nimes in Roman times. We spent a couple of fascinating hours climbing the bridge and examining it from all angles. It is around the height of the Colleseum in Rome and wonderfully well preserved. We then visited the museum which was near the aquaduct only to find it was pouring when we left. (The first real rain of our trip.)
Sadly we then stood at a bus stop waiting for a bus that never came! After an hour, we changed our plans and caught a bus back to Avignon to get into dry clothes, drink hot espressos and take a nap. Later the sun came out and we went to dinner at the "La Vache Carre" (the tiled cow). The menu was on a large chalk board which they brought to the table. When Gail asked if they had an English menu, they spun the chalk board around!
We took the bus to Pont du Gard an incredible 3 level bridge and aquaduct which was part of the major system bringing water to the town of Nimes in Roman times. We spent a couple of fascinating hours climbing the bridge and examining it from all angles. It is around the height of the Colleseum in Rome and wonderfully well preserved. We then visited the museum which was near the aquaduct only to find it was pouring when we left. (The first real rain of our trip.)
Sadly we then stood at a bus stop waiting for a bus that never came! After an hour, we changed our plans and caught a bus back to Avignon to get into dry clothes, drink hot espressos and take a nap. Later the sun came out and we went to dinner at the "La Vache Carre" (the tiled cow). The menu was on a large chalk board which they brought to the table. When Gail asked if they had an English menu, they spun the chalk board around!
à Amboise
Saturday 25 April, 2015 on the road to Amboise
We caught the 0700h TGV train to Paris, then headed back south to Amboise. We checked into our AirBnB apartment where to our great delight (after 2 weeks on the road) we found a washer-dryer!!! We picked up some groceries and booked our Loire Valley Chateaux tour for Sunday. We briefly explored the village of Amboise and that we went for a delightful meal at "La Fourchette" a small restaurant run by the owner-chef.
We caught the 0700h TGV train to Paris, then headed back south to Amboise. We checked into our AirBnB apartment where to our great delight (after 2 weeks on the road) we found a washer-dryer!!! We picked up some groceries and booked our Loire Valley Chateaux tour for Sunday. We briefly explored the village of Amboise and that we went for a delightful meal at "La Fourchette" a small restaurant run by the owner-chef.
Thursday, 23 April 2015
Exploring Avignon
Saturday 18 April, Avignon
We set out with our guide book on a self-guided tour of the old town. We started at the clock tower, admired the "Petit Palais" the former Cardinals Palace. The Papal Court was moved from Rome to Avignon from 1309 to 1403. That was the last time they elected a French Pope!!! From there we walked (read climbed) up the ramparts from which we could admire the Rhone river valley. From there we walked down to St Benezet Bridge, or as every school child knows it - the Pont d'Avignon - and yes, Ted danced on the Pont d'Avignon! Historically the bridge was very important because when it was built in 1171 it was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhone in the middle ages. That being said it was laid on Roman foundations!
From there we proceeded to the Palace of the Popes, the largest surviving gothic palace in Europe. It was absolutely enormous and amazing, you could even say that it was fit for a Pope!
We continued our afternoon with another tour of Avignon's back streets. The town was a textile centre in the 18th century and you can still see one of the water wheels that powered the town's industries.
Tonight we had dinner at the Caveau du Theatre. Gail had the duck after I confirmed that it was not "Donald le canard" and the server quickly assured me that Donald was the previous night and it was Daffy on offer tonight. I had one of Mary's lambs.
We set out with our guide book on a self-guided tour of the old town. We started at the clock tower, admired the "Petit Palais" the former Cardinals Palace. The Papal Court was moved from Rome to Avignon from 1309 to 1403. That was the last time they elected a French Pope!!! From there we walked (read climbed) up the ramparts from which we could admire the Rhone river valley. From there we walked down to St Benezet Bridge, or as every school child knows it - the Pont d'Avignon - and yes, Ted danced on the Pont d'Avignon! Historically the bridge was very important because when it was built in 1171 it was the only bridge crossing the mighty Rhone in the middle ages. That being said it was laid on Roman foundations!
From there we proceeded to the Palace of the Popes, the largest surviving gothic palace in Europe. It was absolutely enormous and amazing, you could even say that it was fit for a Pope!
We continued our afternoon with another tour of Avignon's back streets. The town was a textile centre in the 18th century and you can still see one of the water wheels that powered the town's industries.
Tonight we had dinner at the Caveau du Theatre. Gail had the duck after I confirmed that it was not "Donald le canard" and the server quickly assured me that Donald was the previous night and it was Daffy on offer tonight. I had one of Mary's lambs.
Carcassonne to Avignon
Friday 17 April, 2015 Carcassonne
We spent the morning wandering around the fort again and doing some souvenir shopping! Plastic Roman helments and wooden swords for everyone!
In the afternoon we took the TGV to Avignon. On arrival the heavens opened up and we ran to our hotel! Later we had a lovely dinner at the Le Fou de Fa Fa.
We spent the morning wandering around the fort again and doing some souvenir shopping! Plastic Roman helments and wooden swords for everyone!
In the afternoon we took the TGV to Avignon. On arrival the heavens opened up and we ran to our hotel! Later we had a lovely dinner at the Le Fou de Fa Fa.
Robin Hood's Carcassonne
Thursdy 16 April, 2015 Barcelona to Carcassonne
We started the morning by catching the TGV (Train de Grand Vitesse - high speed train) which wisked us to Carcassonne at speeds of 300 km/hr.
Carcassonne is the largest walled fortress in Europe dating back to Roman times. Robin Hood: Prince of thieves starring Kevin Costner was filmed here in 1990. We spent the afternoon happily exploring this ancient site which is amazingly well preserved. The evening we had dinner at the Adelaide where we tried a regional specialty called a Cassoulet - a mixture of duck, pork sausage and beans which was delicious!
We were lucky in that our hotel the Montmorency, was right at the gate of the fort.
We started the morning by catching the TGV (Train de Grand Vitesse - high speed train) which wisked us to Carcassonne at speeds of 300 km/hr.
Carcassonne is the largest walled fortress in Europe dating back to Roman times. Robin Hood: Prince of thieves starring Kevin Costner was filmed here in 1990. We spent the afternoon happily exploring this ancient site which is amazingly well preserved. The evening we had dinner at the Adelaide where we tried a regional specialty called a Cassoulet - a mixture of duck, pork sausage and beans which was delicious!
We were lucky in that our hotel the Montmorency, was right at the gate of the fort.
Saturday, 18 April 2015
Casa Batllo, Placa d'Espanya and the National Palace
Wednesday, 15 April, 2015 Barcelona
We started our visit to Casa Batllo. An incredible apartment building designed by Gaudi. It features wave shaped window frames and mask-like balconies. On the roof a dragon sculpture. The main apartment was designed for the wealthy Batllo family. All the doorways were arched with floors that undulated and not a corner in the whole apartment. Gaudi designed the double central sky-light, unheard of at the time along with pickets in the doors that could be turned to increase ventilation.
The next stop was at the Placa d'Espanya, site of the 1929 World's fair and the 1992 Olympics. Impressive architecture, beautiful gardens all leading from the esplanade up to the National Palace.
From there we went to the Teleferic (or cable car) de Montjuic which wisked us up the montain to amazing views of the city and the harbour (the largest in the Mediteranean). Then it was back on the bus and down to sea level and to lunch at the World Trade Centre.
After lunch we spent the afternoon strolling La Rambla the famous shopping zone and admiring the beautiful architecture.
We ended our day by having dinner at Barraca, an oceanfront restaurant where we had Paella and watching the people on the beach.
We started our visit to Casa Batllo. An incredible apartment building designed by Gaudi. It features wave shaped window frames and mask-like balconies. On the roof a dragon sculpture. The main apartment was designed for the wealthy Batllo family. All the doorways were arched with floors that undulated and not a corner in the whole apartment. Gaudi designed the double central sky-light, unheard of at the time along with pickets in the doors that could be turned to increase ventilation.
The next stop was at the Placa d'Espanya, site of the 1929 World's fair and the 1992 Olympics. Impressive architecture, beautiful gardens all leading from the esplanade up to the National Palace.
From there we went to the Teleferic (or cable car) de Montjuic which wisked us up the montain to amazing views of the city and the harbour (the largest in the Mediteranean). Then it was back on the bus and down to sea level and to lunch at the World Trade Centre.
After lunch we spent the afternoon strolling La Rambla the famous shopping zone and admiring the beautiful architecture.
We ended our day by having dinner at Barraca, an oceanfront restaurant where we had Paella and watching the people on the beach.
Barcelona and Gaudi
Tuesday, 14 April, 2015 Barcelona
This morning we headed to the Placa Catalunya and bought tickets for the Hop-on Hop-off Sightseeing Bus and proceeded to hop off and on! Our first stop was Park Guell which was designed by Gaudi as a garden city in the English fashion for the Barcelona rich and his sponsor Count Guell. Unfortunately only one house was ever built and the Count deeded the Park to the city.
Our next stop was the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria of Pedralbes founded in 1326. A very interesting museum with a hugh cloister and a pharmacy herb garden. (Gail's bringing back seeds!)
By then it was time for a scenic beer and tapes at Tapas 24. After lunch we proceeded to Sagrada Familia, the Basilica Gaudi designed before his death. It truly is a wonder of the world! It has been under construction since the late 19th century and when completed in 2026 (last estimate) it will hold 13,000 faithful. It's hobbit like exterior belies the modernistic interior with minimal columns and extensive glazing creating an explosion of colours and light as the sun traverses the heavens.
This morning we headed to the Placa Catalunya and bought tickets for the Hop-on Hop-off Sightseeing Bus and proceeded to hop off and on! Our first stop was Park Guell which was designed by Gaudi as a garden city in the English fashion for the Barcelona rich and his sponsor Count Guell. Unfortunately only one house was ever built and the Count deeded the Park to the city.
Our next stop was the Royal Monastery of Santa Maria of Pedralbes founded in 1326. A very interesting museum with a hugh cloister and a pharmacy herb garden. (Gail's bringing back seeds!)
By then it was time for a scenic beer and tapes at Tapas 24. After lunch we proceeded to Sagrada Familia, the Basilica Gaudi designed before his death. It truly is a wonder of the world! It has been under construction since the late 19th century and when completed in 2026 (last estimate) it will hold 13,000 faithful. It's hobbit like exterior belies the modernistic interior with minimal columns and extensive glazing creating an explosion of colours and light as the sun traverses the heavens.
Exploring Barcelona
Monday, 13 April, 2015 Barcelona
We started our day with a walking tour with Feel Free Walking tours of the old city or Bari Gotic. Our guide was a young man that was studying for the foreign service and gave us a historical perspective of the town since its founding in 3 AD by the Roman Empire. You get so much more out of a guided tour than you do wandering about by yourself reading out of a guidebook. After the tour we had a "scenic" beer with tapes (yes, this is Catalunya so not tapas) overlooking the marina where we met a French family from Geneva. The fellow was from Carcassonne originally and his wife had spent 3 months working in Toronto as a young woman. They taught us that you can just keep ordering tapes until you were full! You do not have to order the all at once!
After lunch we took a stroll along the beach. It is a very active area with segways, bikes, scooters on the promenade, and volleyball and sunbathing (some topless) on the beach! Did we say it was 18C?
Then it was back to the Bari Gotic to tour the Cathedral Santa Maria del Mar (the cathedral of the people), and the Barcelona Cathedral (of the rich) - both were spectacular. We then strolled up La Rambla (the famous pedestrian shopping street) then home for an early night.
A word about our neighbourhood. We are staying at a studio apartment in L'Eixample - a planned neighbourhood for the bourgoise. It is famous for its wide sidewalks and avenues - the widest we have seen anywhere, and for its amazing architecture. By contrast, in the Bari Gotic, there are streets barely wide enough for 2 people to pass.
We started our day with a walking tour with Feel Free Walking tours of the old city or Bari Gotic. Our guide was a young man that was studying for the foreign service and gave us a historical perspective of the town since its founding in 3 AD by the Roman Empire. You get so much more out of a guided tour than you do wandering about by yourself reading out of a guidebook. After the tour we had a "scenic" beer with tapes (yes, this is Catalunya so not tapas) overlooking the marina where we met a French family from Geneva. The fellow was from Carcassonne originally and his wife had spent 3 months working in Toronto as a young woman. They taught us that you can just keep ordering tapes until you were full! You do not have to order the all at once!
After lunch we took a stroll along the beach. It is a very active area with segways, bikes, scooters on the promenade, and volleyball and sunbathing (some topless) on the beach! Did we say it was 18C?
Then it was back to the Bari Gotic to tour the Cathedral Santa Maria del Mar (the cathedral of the people), and the Barcelona Cathedral (of the rich) - both were spectacular. We then strolled up La Rambla (the famous pedestrian shopping street) then home for an early night.
A word about our neighbourhood. We are staying at a studio apartment in L'Eixample - a planned neighbourhood for the bourgoise. It is famous for its wide sidewalks and avenues - the widest we have seen anywhere, and for its amazing architecture. By contrast, in the Bari Gotic, there are streets barely wide enough for 2 people to pass.
Monday, 13 April 2015
Escaping the Snow - all 5.4 metres!
Sunday, 12 April, 2015
I think it was the last time we travelled, I almost praised Air Canada. I am now pleased to report that their food is back to their previous standard (poor). And yes, to quote Ron James, if you have ever wondered what happened to those cute young flight attendants from the 1970s - they are still working as flight attendants.
On the whole it was a fairly uneventful trip although we nearly missed our flight from Frankfort to Barcelona. We checked our gate about 45 minutes before take-off and read obliviously until everyone started lining up. When we went to the check-thru gate, our boarding passes were rejected! There had been a gate change and we had not checked either the boards or our mobile which has several warnings on it! Thankfully our flight was slightly delayed and a ten minute run at full tilt brought us to the new gate.
I think it was the last time we travelled, I almost praised Air Canada. I am now pleased to report that their food is back to their previous standard (poor). And yes, to quote Ron James, if you have ever wondered what happened to those cute young flight attendants from the 1970s - they are still working as flight attendants.
On the whole it was a fairly uneventful trip although we nearly missed our flight from Frankfort to Barcelona. We checked our gate about 45 minutes before take-off and read obliviously until everyone started lining up. When we went to the check-thru gate, our boarding passes were rejected! There had been a gate change and we had not checked either the boards or our mobile which has several warnings on it! Thankfully our flight was slightly delayed and a ten minute run at full tilt brought us to the new gate.
No, these are not the departure boards in Charlottetown!
We arrived at our hotel around 1700h, unpacked, and went for a walk around the neighbourhood to get oriented.
Tuesday, 7 April 2015
Our Itinerary
Este es nuestro itinerario. Estaremos viajando a otras ciudades pequeñas y haremos cambios a medida que avanzamos. En el pasado, muchas personas han pedido "que viajamos con". Planeamos nuestro propio viaje y reservar los hoteles, vuelos, Alquileres de automóviles, etc. nosotros mismos.
Це наш маршрут. Ми будемо подорожувати до інших невеликих містах і внесуть зміни, як ми йдемо разом. У минулому, багато людей запитують "хто ми подорожуємо з". Ми плануємо нашу власну поїздку і забронювати готелі, перельоти, Автопрокат, і т.д. самі.
Off to Barcelona and France
It is April 7th, there is over 2 metres of snow in the yard, the temperature hovers just below 0'C and after after more than 5.4 metres of snow most of which came since January 22nd and shows no sign of leaving. We are ready for a holiday!
We are off to Barcelona, Catalunya and then on to France.
Це 7 квітня є більше 2 метрів снігу у дворі, температура коливається трохи нижче 0'C і після після більш ніж 5,4 метра снігу, більшість з яких прийшли з 22 січня і не показує ніяких ознак відходу. Ми готові до свята!
Ми до Барселоні, Каталонії, а потім до Франції.
Ми до Барселоні, Каталонії, а потім до Франції.
Es 07 de abril, hay más de 2 metros de nieve en el patio, la temperatura se sitúa justo por debajo 0'C y después de después de más de 5,4 metros de nieve la mayor parte de los cuales llegaron desde enero 22 y no muestra signos de salir. Estamos listos para un día de fiesta!
Hemos tenido Barcelona, Catalunya y luego a Francia.
Hemos tenido Barcelona, Catalunya y luego a Francia.
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