Wednesday, 6 May 2015

Home Again

Saturday 2 May, 2015 Paris to Canada

We caught the RER train a couple blocks from our apartment to Charles de Gaulle Airport and flew back to Montreal, where an officious supervisor would not let us through because we were less than 30 seconds late - mostly because Air Canada had our flight and a flight from Switzerland on the same baggage carrousel rather than open another.  So, instead of being home at 1800h on Saturday night, we arrived at 0200h on Sunday morning to discover that we had about 30 - 40% of our yard covered in snow with drifts still a metre high.

There is a lot that we learn on every trip from experience and do not mind sharing with others.  Did you know that the French who first bottled water and sold it to the rest of the world drink tap water?  Yes, when you sit down, just ask the waiter for "un carafe d'eau" and it is free - as is the bread.  And, although you may have some heart palpatations when you look at a menu, the VAT (HST for us) and service or tip are included in the price.  You never tip!

Some have asked where our pictures are.  It is hard to put pictures in your blog, when your spouse keeps you marching for 12 hours a day!  Our pictures are at:  https://picasaweb.google.com/ted.lomatski/2015BarcelonaFrance02?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCK6Jw6DnmKutCw&feat=directlink
They will be updated and labeled later in the week with those from our mobile.

May Day in Paris

Friday 1 May, 2015 Labour Day in Paris

Another drizzly day, but we set out to do some shopping in Paris.  After taking the Metro to "au Printemps" - a major department store it hit us - we were not early (although we were), but it was Labour/May Day and everything was closed!  We knew better!!!  We then continued with our plan of visiting the Arc de Triomphe and continuing down the Champs-Élysées where we had lunch on the second floor of a Bistro overlooking the Champs-Élysées.  We continued strolling, checking out the automobile showrooms - BMW, Mercedes, etc. - the only stores open.  That evening, not being hungry, we went to the local pizza place and had the worst meal possible - not the memorable last meal we had planned on.  Then it was back to the apartment to pack and to get to bed early.

Friday, 1 May 2015

in the HOOD

Thursday 30 April, 2015 - exploring our neigbourhood

We woke up to a heavy downpour, but this did not deter us from doing three walking tours in our neighbourhood.  Among the many sites we saw were where Hemmingway stayed (3 locations) and had a cappucino where he drank whisky.  We visited the famous English language bookstore - Shakespeare & Co. - a treasure trove of reading built like warren of small rooms and nooks.  Walking along, I was delighted to be able to help others with directions - en français. Who knew we looked like locals?

This evening we had one of our best meals of our vacation at the "Restaurant Perraudin" right in our neighbourhood.  We had great conversations with mostly Americans around us.

Montmatre and the Louvre

Wednesday 29 April, 2015 - Montmartre

We caught the Metro to Montmartre (the highest point in Paris), where we learned that if there is a choice between an elevator and stairs, one should take the elevator!  Because the Metro follows the same elevation, by the time you arrive at the Metro stop, you have a good 200 stairs to climb to get out of the station.  You then have more to climb to get to the Funicular, which takes you near the steps of the Sacre Couer, which has its own set of steps to climb.

Sacre Cour is a more square church and although large seems more "homey" if one can describe a church in those terms.  Because of its design, it also lets in more light.  It was built to celebrate the deliverance of Paris from the Germans after the Franco-Prussian war and was financed completely by the people.  We then took a little tourist train around Montmartre taking in the famous and infamous sights such as the Moulin Rouge.   We saw where artists such as Pablo Picasso, Renoir, van Gogh, Matisse and Degas stayed.  It is certainly a colourful area with artists everywhere - and many ready to sketch you at a moments notice.

On the way back to the Metro we had a well deserved lunch at the "Villa des Abbesses", trying to recapture some of the calories we had burned off.  We then took the Metro to Place Concorde and walked through the Tuilleries Gardens to the Louvre.

The Louvre is truly amazing.  As a building it is massive with a kilometre of halls of displays on each of 5 levels - for a total of 5 kilometres!  We did see the "Mona Lisa" among many other paintings and statues, but barely scratched the surface in the 4 hours spent there.  The architecture and finishes of the Louvre are masterpieces in themselves.

From there we headed back to the rue Clerc neighbourhood near the Eiffel Tower and had dinner at "au-petit-sud-ouest" which features duck from the owner's farm in the south west of France.  You can have any kind of duck you want - as long as it is duck!

Hurrying our meal - because it was nearly 10pm, we went over to the Eiffel Tower to see the light display that happens at the top of the hour.  Not to be missed!

Eiffel Tower & Music in Notre Dame

Tuesday 28 April, 2015 - exploring Paris

We started off by walking through the Luxembourg Gardens - a beautiful spot even in April.  We then toured the gardens at the Rodin museum (the museum itself was not open) where many of his statues or replicas are displayed including "The Thinker".  Then we had a date with the Eiffel Tower.  We had pre-booked, so we were able to go straight to the top level - over 300 metres or 81 stories.  Wow!  All of Paris at our feet!  It was a sunny day and we could see forever!!  After admiring the views we then went down to the 2nd level (about a 1/3 of the way up) where it was actually easier to identify landmarks.  This was the absolute highlight of stay in Paris.

From there we headed to the "Café du Marché" for a late lunch.  After lunch, we did more sightseeing before having a light dinner.  After dinner we had tickets for a recital of sacred (pipe) organ music at Notre Dame Cathedral.  It was truly magical with the wonderful accoustics created by the scultpted stone walls.

à Paris

Monday 27 April, 2015 - off to Paris

After a quick last look around Amboise we caught the train to Paris, where it was shockingly cold (-12'C) after the heat of the south.  Upon arrival we checked into our tiny AirBnB apartment.  We are conveniently located in the Latin Quarter a 10 minute walk from the Notre Dame Cathedral, and between the Pantheon and the Luxembourg Gardens.  We started with visiting the Notre Dame Cathedral - absolutely spectacular with the most vibrant stained glass we have seen anywhere.  We then explored the area for a couple of hours until we froze - there was a windchill!  We had an early dinner at Gueuze a brew pub in the student district of the Sorbonne.

Thursday, 30 April 2015

The Loire Valley

Sunday 26 April, 2015 - house hunting in the Loire Valley

We started the morning at "Clos du Lucė" the chateau where Leonado da Vinci spent the last 3 years of his life under the patronage of King François 1st.  He crossed the Alps on a mule bringing with him among other things the Mona Lisa, which at one point hung in the King's bathroom!!  This was one of the most fascinating places we have ever visited.  The chateau, although quite large overall, was well proportioned and liveable.

His machines were brought to life by IBM who created scale models based on his original drawings.  Gliders, aeroplanes, swing bridges, tanks, gattling guns, screw pumps, canal locks - all centuries ahead of his time.

The next stop was Chateau Amboise.  A hugh fortress that had guarded Amboise in medieval times, it features a dramatic wide entrance ramp where horses drawing a carriage could gallop up a steep slope into the main court yard.

After a quick lunch we caught our guided tour of the Chateaux of Chambord and Chenonceau.

Chambord is the largest of the Loire Valley Chateaux, so large we thought we might get lost!  If features a number of beautifully decorated and furnished rooms.  It has a double helix staircase that winds around a central pillar where guests can see each other, yet never meet.  From there we travelled to Chenonceau considered to be the most graceful and elegant of the chateaux.  It was was owned by a succession of 3 powerful women.  It is built across the river Cher with 4 arches topped by a splendid ball room.  During WWII, the river Cher was the demarcation line between occupied France and the Vichy regime.  The castle was used to smuggle resistance fighters into occupied France and the ball room served as a hospital.

All four of the properties had wonderful features, however none met our standards and needs, so we will be returning to Stratford.

We finished the day with a delightful meal at "L'Épicerie" facing the Chateau Amboise, where we were happy to find ourselves seated next to the four Australians we had met on the tour and were able to continue our interesting conversations.  Did you know that they are able to plant only one crop per year in the Perth area beause of drought??